rock climbing

Trad & Aid Climbing with One Axe Pursuits

Submitted by dave on

Since I started trad climbing, I was obsessed with it. I absolutely love the freedom (and the gear) of it. I read everything I could get my hands on, watched a bunch of YouTube videos on gear placement, cleaned (seconded) a bunch of routes led by friends, and even did my first trad lead at Seneca Rocks. But I still wanted to know more, and get some more lead pitches in. Google led me One Axe Pursuits' Trad Climbing course. Read more about Trad & Aid Climbing with One Axe Pursuits

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Ego Check in the Adirondacks

Submitted by dave on

Coming off an incredible weekend at Seneca Rocks, including my first trad lead and technical summit and a good day at Buffalo Crag top-roping some harder routes (for me anyway), I was feeling pretty strong heading into this Dacks trip. I hoped to do a couple more trad leads, and maybe push grades on a sport climb or two. That wasn't to be. 

I found the roadside turnout where Jeremy had told me to park. From there, it was a short hike in to a clearing, and set up camp. The first campsite was occupied by a guy, alone, with no tent - just a cot sitting underneath a canopy, with some military-looking gear on a picnic table. He told me that the other campsite wasn't level, and invited me to share his site & fire. After confirming that the second site sucked, I figure what the heck... If he was going to kill me it wouldn't matter which site I was sleeping at. His car had US Federal Government plates, so he must be trustworthy. I set up my tent while he stoked the fire, then I headed back towards the highway to get a cell signal so I could let Jeremy know where I was. Read more about Ego Check in the Adirondacks

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Seneca Rocks Rocks

Submitted by dave on

I had high hopes for this trip to Seneca Rocks with George... The last time I climbed with George was our ice climbing trip to the Adirondacks. I always enjoy spending time with him, and I had heard that Seneca Rocks was nothing short of amazing for trad climbing. I wasn't disappointed. 

Friday was a driving day, as it usually is for my road trips. It took my roughly 9 hours to get down to West Virginia on Friday and I met up with George in the early evening. We set up camp, lit a fire, and had a few beers while catching up and plotting our adventure for Saturday. The plan: gain the south summit (the only summit east of the Mississippi that requires technical climbing).  Read more about Seneca Rocks Rocks

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Reunited at the Jasper Rock Gardens

Submitted by dave on

I got awesome news at work... I had to be in Edmonton right after the May long weekend for a conference. I booked my flight out for Sunday afternoon, which left Monday free for some climbing with my good buddy AJ, who now lives in Edmonton. We researched climbs online in the Jasper area and found a few areas with route descriptions, but no guidebook (it's out of print). AJ found this beta on SummitPost, so that's what we used. 

AJ picked me up at the airport Sunday night. We picked up a six pack and headed straight for Jasper. The drive was a real treat for me... It was SO good to spend time with AJ again (I really miss him since he moved), and it was fun being on a drive with someone else instead of my usual solo road trips. It's a good thing AJ was driving, because I saw a sign for the "Scenic Route to Alaska"... I'm not sure I would have been able to resist taking that exit.

We got out to the Pocahontas Campground around 11:30pm, and quickly set up camp in the rain (I've been rained on while camping a lot this year). We killed the six pack and shared a few more laughs while enjoying to fresh Rocky Mountain air.

Monday morning we got up and headed into Jasper for a quick breakfast before trying to find the Rock Gardens. Finding the parking lot was easy. We broke out the makeshift guidebook and started hiking in. About 20 minutes in we realized that we had missed a turn on the trail. While we should have been at the crag already, we were instead following the winding river. So we turned around and started the approach for a second time. This time we found the crag without any problems.  Read more about Reunited at the Jasper Rock Gardens

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A Spring Weekend in the Gunks

Submitted by dave on

I arrived at the Multi-Use Area at the Shawangunks around 2pm on Friday. Jeremy and Liz had already arrived and had set up camp. Liz saw my Ontario license plate as I pulled through the parking lot, and she yelled out to me. Perfect timing!  I hopped out of the car, set up my camp, and we decided to head to The Trapps for a few afternoon climbs. 

We started out on Rhododendron. I was pretty excited to climb it since I didn't get to climb it last time I was at the Gunks, and it looked like fun.  Jeremy led it, Liz followed, and I top-roped it. It felt good, and I wanted to learn to lead trad, so Jeremy let me mock lead it, tied off the belay to counterbalance me, and then reviewed my gear placements as I lowered off the climb. Some were good, some not so good... overall, not bad for my first attempt at placing any gear.

Liz's friend Dean joined us as we were wrapping up on Rhododendron, and we moved over to Laurel. I love this route... the first move or two is pretty awkward for some people (it's not uncommon to see some really strong climbers fumble through the opening of Laurel), but I really enjoy it. It's a fun climb.

We finished the afternoon climbing a variation of Red Cabbage, and head into town for some food and beer at The Gilded Otter. We were hoping to meet up with a few other people (@climbwithkids was at the Gunks too, but we missed her). Read more about A Spring Weekend in the Gunks

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